TL;DR: Ylang ylang is sold in five distinct distillation grades, and the grade on the label matters more than the brand. For general diffusion, Complete is fine. For perfumery or skincare, reach for 1st or Extra. And in every case, use less than you think you need β this oil is potent.
Introduction
Ylang ylang is one of the most misunderstood essential oils on the market, and the reason is almost never the oil itself. It's the grades. Walk into any natural-goods store and you'll find bottles labeled simply "ylang ylang" with no further qualification β and those bottles may smell noticeably different from each other, cost radically different amounts, and behave very differently in a blend. That's not inconsistency. That's chemistry, and it's by design.
The distillation of ylang ylang flowers is deliberately interrupted at different points, each fraction collected and sold separately. The earliest fraction is the lightest and most desirable for fine perfumery. The later fractions are heavier, denser, more tenacious. When all the fractions are pooled together, the result is what most mass-market bottles call "Complete." None of these is fraudulent. They are simply different products sharing a common source plant.
Get the wrong grade for your intended use and you'll wonder why everyone raves about ylang ylang. Get the right one β a 1st or Extra grade for a perfume roller, say, or a Complete for the bedroom diffuser β and you'll understand immediately why this flower sits at the heart of some of the most celebrated fragrances in the world.
Botanical Background & Extraction
Cananga odorata belongs to the Annonaceae family, the same botanical lineage as ylang ylang's relative cananga oil (sometimes sold under that name) and a number of tropical fruit-bearing trees. The cananga tree is an evergreen that grows tall and fast in the humid tropics, reaching 12 meters or more at maturity, with long drooping branches and distinctive pale yellow flowers that hang in clusters and smell, at their peak, almost overwhelmingly sweet.
The primary growing regions for oil production are the Philippines, Madagascar, the Comoro Islands, and RΓ©union, with Comoros and Madagascar together accounting for the largest share of the global aromatherapy supply. Soil, humidity, and harvest timing all influence the final oil's character, and single-origin Comoros ylang ylang has a devoted following among perfumers.
Flowers are harvested early in the morning β pre-dawn in many operations β because the volatile compound concentration peaks overnight and begins to drop once the sun heats the blooms. Freshness matters: the flowers are steam-distilled the same day they're picked. The distillation itself is where the story gets interesting, because it doesn't stop at one oil.
The 5 Distillation Grades
This is the section most ylang ylang buyers never read, and the source of most ylang ylang disappointment. The distillation of Cananga odorata flowers is a fractional process β the still is run continuously, but the output is collected in separate vessels at timed intervals. Each fraction has a different chemical composition, a different scent character, and a different price point.
Extra
The first 30 to 60 minutes of distillation yield what is sold as Extra grade. This fraction captures the lightest, most volatile aroma compounds first β the bright, airy top notes of the flower rather than its heavy base. Extra is the most expensive grade and the most sought-after in high-end perfumery. It is noticeably less dense on the nose than later grades, with a cleaner floral sweetness and less of the banana-heavy depth that defines the middle and lower fractions. If you are making a skin perfume or a natural fragrance roller and want ylang ylang to read as delicate rather than dominant, Extra is the grade to reach for.
1st
The next fraction collected β roughly the hour following the Extra cut β is labeled 1st grade. This is the most commonly sold aromatherapy grade and the most balanced of the five. It carries the fullness of the flower without the heavier woody undertones of later fractions. Most professional aromatherapists and skincare formulators work with 1st when they want ylang ylang's full character without the complexity (or cost) of Extra.
2nd
The 2nd grade fraction comes next in the distillation sequence. The scent becomes noticeably heavier, slightly woodier, and less sweet than the 1st. The floral brightness begins to recede, replaced by a more tenacious, dense quality. It blends well in oriental and chypre-style compositions where depth is the goal.
3rd
The 3rd grade is the heaviest of the individually sold fractions. At this stage of distillation, most of the light esters have already been captured; what remains is rich in sesquiterpenes and heavier aromatic compounds. The scent is full and persistent, with a pronounced base-note character. Soap makers and candle formulators often work with 3rd grade because its tenacity survives processes β heating, mixing with lye β that would destroy more volatile fractions.
Complete
Complete ylang ylang is what you get when the entire distillation run is combined without separation. It represents the average of all fractions: not as bright as Extra, not as heavy as 3rd, but a serviceable middle ground. It is the most widely available grade in health food stores and online marketplaces, and it is perfectly fine for diffusion, bath products, and general aromatherapy use.
Practical guidance: If you are buying a single bottle and plan to diffuse it or use it in a bath blend, Complete is a reasonable choice. If you are making a skin perfume, facial serum, or anything where nuance matters, spend the extra money on 1st or Extra.
Scent Profile
Heady is the word most people reach for first, and it earns the description. Ylang ylang is intensely sweet, tropical, and floral β but with a soft, rubbery, slightly banana-adjacent note underneath that distinguishes it from rose or jasmine. In small amounts, it reads as intoxicating and lush. In larger amounts, it becomes oppressive quickly, and that's where headaches enter the picture.
It is classified as a middle-to-base note, which means it bridges the gap between the bright top-note openers and the heavy base anchors of a blend. It has excellent staying power on skin and in diffusion, which is part of why so little goes such a long way.
Ylang ylang pairs beautifully with bergamot (the pairing brightens it considerably), sandalwood, vetiver, rose, jasmine, geranium, and patchouli. It is famously one of the components in Chanel No. 5, where it forms part of the floral heart alongside rose and jasmine absolutes. That association alone tells you where this oil lives in the fragrance world.
Chemistry in Plain English
Ylang ylang's complex scent comes from a correspondingly complex mix of aromatic compounds, and the grade you buy affects which of those compounds predominate.
The esters β primarily benzyl acetate and geranyl acetate β are responsible for much of the sweet, fruity, floral character and are concentrated in the earlier fractions (Extra and 1st). Linalool, a compound shared with lavender, contributes a softer, calming floral quality and is associated in small studies with mild anxiolytic effects during inhalation. Together, the esters and linalool give ylang ylang its reputation as a relaxing, mood-lifting oil.
P-cresyl methyl ether is the compound most responsible for the distinctive banana-rubbery facet that polarizes people: it is a defining character note that some find irresistible and others find cloying. It is present in higher concentration in the later fractions, which is why 3rd grade ylang ylang smells markedly more banana-heavy than Extra.
The sesquiterpenes β Ξ²-caryophyllene and germacrene D among them β are anti-inflammatory compounds shared with many other oils and contribute to the base-note tenacity and fixative quality of the heavier grades. They also help anchor blends, slowing the evaporation of lighter components.
Uses That Work
Mood & Stress
Small studies have linked ylang ylang inhalation to measurable reductions in cortisol levels and modest decreases in blood pressure in healthy adults. The effect is gentle and not dramatic, but it is real enough that ylang ylang has an established place in stress-reduction aromatherapy protocols. Diffuse 1 to 2 drops β genuinely, not as a starting point before adding more, but as the actual target dose. The heady compounds that make this oil pleasurable in low concentrations are the same ones that cause headaches when overdone.
Perfumery
This is where ylang ylang earns its reputation among professionals. It functions as a middle-to-base note that adds depth and lushness to floral, oriental, and tropical compositions without demanding the spotlight. It is one of the most useful bridging ingredients in natural perfumery, connecting bright citrus tops to heavy resinous bases. The Extra and 1st grades are preferred here.
Skincare
At a 1% dilution in a suitable carrier oil, ylang ylang is used in formulations targeting oily or combination skin. Some evidence suggests it may help regulate sebum production, though this remains an area of ongoing interest rather than established clinical fact. Avoid applying it to broken, irritated, or sensitized skin, as its strong aromatic compounds can be irritating in those contexts.
Hair
Traditional use in Madagascar involves ylang ylang-infused coconut or jojoba oil applied to the scalp and hair for shine and conditioning. A 1% dilution in jojoba oil works well as a scalp massage oil; the carrier does most of the moisturizing work, and the ylang ylang contributes both fragrance and its traditionally valued conditioning properties.
Blends That Work
Relaxing Bath Blend
Combine 2 tablespoons of a liquid carrier (fractionated coconut or a bath-safe dispersant) with 3 drops ylang ylang Complete, 4 drops bergamot, and 3 drops lavender. Add to a drawn bath and swirl before entering. The bergamot lifts the ylang ylang's heaviness, lavender smooths the whole composition, and the warmth of the bath amplifies the diffusion gently. Never add undiluted essential oils directly to bathwater β the dispersant step is not optional.
Bedroom Perfume Roller
Fill a 10 ml roller bottle with jojoba oil, leaving a small gap at the top. Add 3 drops ylang ylang 1st or Extra, 5 drops sandalwood, and 4 drops bergamot. Cap, roll gently to mix, and apply to pulse points. This sits at approximately 3% total dilution and gives a soft, romantic, long-lasting fragrance that reads as sophisticated rather than floral-heavy.
Calming Diffuser Blend
Add 1 drop ylang ylang Complete, 3 drops bergamot, and 2 drops cedarwood to your diffuser with the manufacturer's recommended water volume. Run for 30 minutes on, 30 minutes off. The cedarwood grounds the blend and reinforces the base-note quality of the ylang ylang, while bergamot keeps the overall impression light and accessible.
Safety
The headache warning is real, and it deserves more than a passing mention. Ylang ylang contains high concentrations of potent floral compounds β particularly the esters and p-cresyl methyl ether β that become genuinely unpleasant and physically uncomfortable at doses higher than what the oil requires to be effective. The problem is almost always overuse: people accustomed to more subtle oils add five or six drops to a diffuser and spend the next hour with a throbbing head and a newfound dislike of ylang ylang. Use 1 to 2 drops in diffusion, and stop there.
For topical use, Tisserand and Young's Essential Oil Safety sets the dermal maximum at 0.8%. This is lower than many commonly used oils, and it means that even a standard 2% dilution carries some risk if ylang ylang is the only oil in your blend. Stay at or below 0.8% for skin applications to minimize sensitization risk.
Ylang ylang is not considered KidSafe for children under 5. For older children, proceed with caution and keep dilutions low.
During pregnancy, the guidance is genuinely divided: some authorities consider diluted ylang ylang acceptable after the first trimester, while others recommend avoiding it throughout. Because the evidence base is thin and opinions among qualified practitioners vary, the most honest advice is to consult a certified aromatherapist or your healthcare provider before using it during pregnancy.
It is not suitable for use around cats. Floral oils generally are not cat-friendly, and ylang ylang specifically has been flagged by veterinary toxicologists as a potential irritant for felines. If you have cats in the household, diffuse in a room they cannot access, or choose a different oil.
Shelf Life & Storage
Ylang ylang is one of the more stable essential oils, with a typical shelf life of 3 to 4 years from opening when stored properly. Store it in an amber glass bottle, away from direct light, in a cool environment β a cabinet away from heat sources is ideal, a refrigerator works if ambient room temperature is consistently high.
Unlike many citrus or conifer oils, ylang ylang does not degrade toward harsh or rancid-smelling compounds as it ages. Properly stored, it actually tends to mellow and deepen with time, becoming richer and slightly smoother. An old bottle of well-stored ylang ylang Complete is not a disappointment β it's often quite beautiful.
Where to Buy
For grade-conscious buyers, three suppliers stand out. Plant Therapy offers both Complete and specific grades, with clear labeling and GC/MS reports available for download. Eden's Garden carries Complete and 1st grade, both with testing documentation. Aromatics International stocks all grades including Extra, making it the best option for perfumers who want to work across the full range. All three ship to most US addresses and publish batch-specific testing.
If you are buying from a general marketplace and the grade is not specified on the listing, email the supplier before purchasing. Any reputable company should be able to tell you immediately which fraction they are selling.
Related Oils
[[oils:lavender,bergamot,sandalwood,frankincense,geranium]]